The way it went down was unlike years past with a list of sends and new areas unlocked. To be part of a growing culture and an ever expanding play ground, through the strength and will and sometimes luck to manage some amazing lines. It still honors me to be able to be able to pioneer new lines and areas for the masses to enjoy in the future. All this aside lets get down to it.
The first a long standing project at the main wall at duke point in my native Nanaimo hot spot. The unicorn was a journey through time, starting some time in the beginning of climbing for me, battled and thrown to the ground so many times to even fathom the minute movements that must be achieved to send this inspiring line. I started working it In April with a couple trips and failed attempts. It seemed like another year was going to pass me by and would see my goals pushed further to the horizon. The moves are simple enough with some bad crimps and long moves to the slopers that have hung of the lip of the problem taunting me for most of my climbing life. The next part is a series of finite movements that take you through some nasty sloping nothingness, then a heel and some prayer and you hit a nice flat edge to get over the lip with. I took me another three trips before I would stand atop this problem but it was nothing in the time line of attempts and failures. The problem has stood for along time and problem will stay unrepeated for quit some time, I gave it V12 the hardest line I have ever climbed.
Duke point also gave up some other hard lines and some easier ones too and i was excitation a being able to be apart of some new lines.http://vimeo.com/71619256
Reefer Madness V7 Fa, Baby Dunk V5 Fa, Dunk Sit V10, Ten pin V9, Krill Oil V10, Polkaroo V4, Safety Not Guarantied V4, Euro Style Slap Fest V11.
Next Destination Was Sutton pass just outside of Port Alberni and at the far end of sprout lake. So many lines all new area, thanks to Aaron Hamilton and Ben Walker for opening and doing some insane development. Definitely one of the finest bouldering areas of Vancouver island with problems ranging from V0 right up to V13 and some project still awaiting the mutants and freaks from the climbing community. I managed to still a few Firsts including Perilous Pants eating Plants V11 and the stand that went at V10 as well as Harvesting the unicorn V10 and The Ghost of Laslo James right V7…..This area is a must see and must climb for anyone at any level its that good.http://vimeo.com/70218625
So my Goals Are to go bigger and better this year and bag some in-saneness whether its attainable or not will be determined by what can you do but try.
Peace……….keep the rubber side down.
First trip of the year.
For a while now I have been hearing through the grape vine that there is a new magical boulder destination west of Port Alberni on Vancouver island. These same vines had been excited of the possibility of many hard projects up to v14 and hints of it been or maybe even rivaling Squamish. I was sold.
We started out early Sunday morning and headed over to the gym to pick up our gear. The excitement in the air was palpable, everyone in high expectation. A small group, consisting of strong and keen climbers we left the gym and started out north on highway 1. Sutton Boulders is located west of Nanaimo off highway 4 just past the end of sprout lake. The first area has been established for close to a decade now know as Sutton creek and bolsters some good climbing from moderate to advanced. This was not to be our primary focus, and as we drove by I reflected on the many good problems that reside amongst the road side talus. No more then a mile away we were pulling over. Jumping out of the car you immediately feel the solitude of the wilderness, the only thing foreing is the road surrounded by forest, stream and mountain. There is no real hike to get to the first boulders, they can be seen from the road even and bolster some great climbing from V0 to V9, all established and clean.
The rock is a solid granite with high friction type with everything you’d want to fight with for the days escapades.
Its been a month or so since the inception and creation of the home training cave. Its cold and finding motivation to get out in the elements to train is daunting. That being said I have had a chance to set some sick lines and try some of the moves out to realize I need more jug and finger buckets for the 35 degree side of the cave. Most of the problems that I’m super excited to start climbing are int the v10 to 11 range and now that I have adequate pads to try them, I will start getting stronger (hopefully).
Starting a training routine has been challenging anyone have an idea as to what next for someone trying to get past v10 11 lets hear it.
Got the itch for some more gear a few days ago so I picked up two more crash pads to make the home wall and trips that much easier.
From flashed climbing the Shogun and the Temple.
I have had a Flashed pad for almost 7 years now that they no longer make mostly due to the fact that its literally a beast(6×4 feet called the Chi) so I chose some smaller ones.
These pads are one of the nicest that I have ever seen. Some what expensive, you get what you pay for. The materials are top quality and closure system and back pack straps are super solid and comfortable. Buckles are built for ease of use, quick release and strong, not to mention attractive. The pad folds taco (or burrito) style but relaxes out flat within a half hour, while the foam is firm and puts you at ease with no fear of bottoming it out. Covered with durable 1000-denier nylon and upholstery top for comfort and wiping your feet. Reinforced stitching were needed and cargo pocket for the odds and ends you may need to stash away safely. These are awesome mats.
- 66″; x 42″; x 4″;
- Weight: 8.1kgs / 18lbs
- 54” x 42” x 3.5”
- Weight: 6.5kgs / 14lbs
Decided to try out a new pad so I searched around to find the most bang for the buck and came up with the disturbed pad from Asana Climbing. Hesitating for a brief pause I took a deep breath and ordered the pad to the specs and color scheme I wanted and sat back and waited for it to arrive. I was soon put at ease with the quick turnaround time. Date ordered was January 23 and it arrived at the door today the 30th, 7 days for a custom one off pad, really quite fast. From Boise Idaho to Vancouver Island My pad was here it was home. I ripped in to it like a kid on Christmas day, packed quite well the pad slipped out of its protective sleeve and was here sitting on the floor.
Really good seems, stitching and corners tight and square, colors were bang on as well as custom name on the side. Exactly what was ordered. The straps and waist belt very well put together and very functional. Buckles carry handles all solid and heavy enough to not have to worry about lasting the life of the pad. The 1000 denier nylon shell, definitely a step up from my older pads,in short rugged and tough construction. The foam and feel of the pad at 5 inches thick feels solid, and with the closed cell on top covering the hinge of the pad, safety too.
Definitely a great buy for this pad and a great addition to any trip.
- 60 x 44 x 5
- Forest Green
- Big Flap
- Bottom Flap
- Add Your Name
- White Winters
I’m going to just jump into it.
My new training ground, decided to climb some hard stuff this year and going to train a little to do it. I give up some free time in the local gym setting hard problems and easy ones a like, in exchange for climbing and enjoyment. I have been setting for around 10 years, comps, both routes and boulder as well as just for anything that need doing. The arrangement has been awesome like a dream really, the owner is a good friend and is far to good to me. I decided to put and island voice out in hopes that we can get some people amped in the local scene and abroad.
First off sorry to everyone I only really have time to boulder at this point in my life with the addition of my third child and having to work full time to support a living. That said I love climbing and strive to be better all the time.
The training grounds is the wall in my carport, supported by my lovely wife who gave the go ahead, a viciously over hung 35 degree side in to a short roof and a 60 degree side opposed. No messing around really just hard training angles. Notice I have made it sound worse then it probably is.